Sept 12, 2021We were up a little early and drove to Belgrade, MT to attend church. It happened to be stake conference so the church meeting was broadcast to the building we were at from Bozeman. The visiting general authority was former BYU quarterback Gifford Nielson. He gave a nice talk.

After church we continued east on I-90 and made our way to the Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park. We were lucky to find an open campground and we just relaxed around the campground the rest of the day. We spent most of the afternoon studying our Spanish lessions.

Sept 13, 2021

Last night was a pretty warm night, considering we were in the Montana mountains. After breakfast we drove up the mountain to the parking area for the Lewis and Clark Caverns tour. This was only 3 miles from the campground and was a pretty nice road. We signed up for the longer 2 mile/2 hour tour that started at 10:30 am. 

We had a small tour group of only ten, plus Jon, the tour guide. The history of the cave was interesting and there were many beautiful natural formations. We learned that Lewis and Clark never visited the caves, but had followed the Jefferson River in the valley below. The caves were discovered by deer hunters in the early 1900s and the area and cave was improved by the CCC in the 1940s. The tour consisted of about 0.75 mile hike up the mountain, a 0.75 mile walk through the cave and then after exiting the cave further down the mountain, it was a 0.5 mile walk back to the parking area. 

After exploring the cave we drove back to I-90 and continued west to Butte. Our next stop was to visit “Our Lady of the Rockies” which is a 90 ft statue of the Virgin Mary situated above Butte. The statue is on top of the mountains along the Continental Divide. We were able to see the statue from the highway, but the tours had ended for the summer because all the bus drivers had gone back to work as school bus drivers, and they couldn’t find anyone else to drive the tour buses. We were able to stop at their visitor center in town and watch a short movie about the construction of the statue.

We continued west to Anaconda and then we drove north on a scenic highway towards Philipsburg. We had planned to visit Philipsburg today, but we were later than we planned so we found a campsite in the mountains outside of Philipsburg. It was a very nice spot on Fred Burr Creek, with a small swimming hole near the camp. We enjoyed the evening sitting near the water. A couple of local ladies came by and we talked for a while, but the rest of the evening was quiet.

May 18, 2021

It was 34 degrees when we left camp at 6:30 am to drive to the North Rim Lodge, but the sun was rising, so it warmed up quickly. We ate breakfast in the parking lot as we waited for the shuttle bus to carry us to the mule corrals. The drive to the corral was our first excitement, the transmission on the bus gave out and left us stranded about a mile from the corral. Fortunately there was an empty lodge van just behind us. They picked up most of the group and we had to wait for a truck from the corrals to pick us up.

At the corral we were assigned mules and we saddled up for the ride. Eva rode Pumpkin and I rode HighBall. They were both very good mules and we had no problems on the ride. 

The ride was about 2 miles and 1800’ descent into Roaring Springs Canyon to the Supai Tunnel. The trail was steep in areas with many switchbacks. The mules were well trained and essentially know their way on the trail. We just had to keep them moving so they didn’t stop and just eat the foliage along the trail.

At the tunnel we dismounted and stretched our legs, took pictures and got a drink of water. The ride up was much easier and more comfortable on both us and the mules. The entire ride took about 3 hours and it was a lot of fun. Eva was a little concerned about riding as her last few attempts were not too successful. She did great and I think we will try it again some day.

We originally wanted to do the afternoon ride because we thought the morning would be too cold. We wore jackets for the first 30-40 minutes, but it warmed up quickly and the temperature was real nice for the entire ride. I think the afternoon ride would be too hot.

After the mule ride we did the short hike to Bright Angel Point, starting near the visitor center. We then drove the Cape Royal scenic drive and walked to the viewpoints at the end of the road.

After returning to the main road we turned north and continued our way home. After a stop in Fredonia for gas, we drove to just south of Mt Carmel Junction and camped alongside the east fork of the Virgin River. The next morning we continued home arriving around 3:30 pm.

May 14, 2021

Last night at dinner, we all decided that we would head for the border the next day. Given the hot temperatures and our location in Mexico, it seemed the best option was to head north. However we did want to visit a Seri Indian village about 25 miles from Bahia de Kino. Frenchie had told us of the baskets they sell. They are woven so tight that they hold water. So we wanted to visit and see a little more of the Mexico culture.

In the morning Eva and I enjoyed the nice ocean view from the patio at the hotel. We decided that we need to come back and have a relaxing vacation at this hotel. A similar hotel in the US would probably be over $400 per night.

The drive to the Seri village of A Punta Chueca was on a paved road and the village is near the coast. The Seri tribe was relocated, by the Mexican government, from their historic home onTiburon island to this location many years ago. The town is very poor and while they have a paved road and electricity, it still looks like a rough life.

We pulled into town and parked at the town square. There was no one around when we parked, but Frenchie had warned us what would happen next. The people quickly learned that we were in town and they poured out of their homes with items to sell. They were selling necklaces, bracelets, wood carvings and baskets. They mostly gathered around Eva and she looked at many items. We spent about $120 USD on several necklaces and bracelets and a basket. We really didn’t need any of it, but they are in such poverty, we wanted to help in some way. We also gave away the last of our fruit snacks and the kids gathered around Frenchie as he gave away handfuls of candy.

They were all very nice and courteous, but were continually showing us their items. Eva also met a special friend that was carrying his pet bird that he had found.

After returning to Bahia de Kino we gassed up and headed for the border. It was about a 3-4 hour drive, but it was mostly on toll roads, so we were able to cover ground quickly. At Imuris we all separated. Frenchie, Chris and JC turned east on highway 2. They were headed to the border crossing at Naco and Eva and I continued north to the border crossing at Nogales. 

The border crossing was quick, but we did have to stop at the agriculture inspection station. They told us they stop anyone with a refrigerator. They took our avocado pit and some old oranges that we had in the trash. They warned us about other food items that we had, but let us keep them.

We had a great tour of Mexico. We were glad to see this beautiful part of the world with such a great group of people. Frenchie, our unofficial tour guide, did a great job directing us through this remote part of Mexico. Without his experience, we would have never been able to visit the Copper Canyon area.

We drove north to Tucson and gassed up at Costco and then found a nearby manual car wash. It cost $7 to just spray off the main dirt and dust from our 3 weeks of travel in Mexico. The van is not clean, but at least most of the dust is gone. 

We spent the night at our favorite campsite about 20 miles north of Tucson in the Ironwood National Forest. When we stayed here in January and February and the area was full of campers that had escaped the cold. However today, there was no one camped in the area. After setting up camp I noticed that we have a tire that is losing air. We had driven thousands of miles in Mexico and we ended up getting a flat tire in the US. It is a slow leak, so I will just fill it with air and fix it when we get home. We spend the evening at our warm, quiet and dark camp looking at the stars.

May 13, 2021

This morning the group split in half. Gus, Tino, Jeff and Wendy turned south, heading towards Guadalujara. Gus was going home and Tino to visit his family. Jeff and Wendy continue to somewhere cooler so they could stay in Mexico for a few more weeks. The forecast for Alamos and this part of Mexico, was temperatures over 105 degrees, so none of us wanted to stay for another day.

The rest of us turned north and drove to the coast of the Sea of Cortez. We planned to spend the night at Bahia de Kino, just west of Hermosillo. As we drove north the roads improved dramatically and we were able to drive faster than 15 mph, even as fast as 60-70 mph. This was a big change over the past two weeks.

As we drove towards Hermosillo, we drove on the toll road. This really allowed us to cover ground quickly. The first tollbooth we passed cost us $176 pesos (about $9 USD). However, passing through the rest of the tollbooths was more interesting. Tino had warned that in Sonora, groups of the native people have taken over the tollbooths. They don’t feel they were adequately compensated for the lands that were taken to build the toll road, so they stand near the tollgate and ask/demand for money. There are no officials to man the tollbooths, but just 8-10 individual there to take money. We were told it was optional and most people just drive through. 

We gave some money at a few of the tollbooths, but most were very aggressive in demanding money. At one gate they held a rope stretched across the road to force you to stop. We followed the vehicles in front of us and just slowly rolled through as they yelled at us. At the last minute they dropped the rope and allowed you to continue. When we passed, the rope caught on our bumper and about pulled the guy down. I stopped for a moment and the guy quickly unhooked the rope. I think the reason the toll at the first booth was so high is the owners of the road have realized that they will not collect any tolls at the other booths.

We arrived in Bahia de Kino around 3 pm and drove through town. This town is essentially one long road that parallels the coast. We had planned to stay at a campground that Frenchie was familiar with, but it had been torn down and it looked like condos were being built at that location. The coastline is essentially end-to-end condos and has become a tourist destination. It is still small and quaint, but it looks like it has been discovered and is growing quickly.

We ended up staying at Hotel La Playa. This is a very fancy hotel and we got rooms overlooking the beach. It was the most expensive place we have stayed at ($90 USD), but by far the nicest hotel. We thought it would be a nice indulgence for one night.

The hotel has two infinity pools that overlook the beach and water. Eva and I spent time in the pool both before dinner and later after dark. We both commented that this is such a change from the 2 weeks of camping in the mountains and valleys of Copper Canyon. The hotel was nice and relaxing. We all had dinner at a restaurant in town and made it back to the hotel around dark.

May 11, 2021

The night at Hotel Paraiso del Oso was peaceful and quiet. It was our best night in a hotel on this trip. The morning was cool and clear as the sun was hidden behind the nearby mountain peaks. We all took our time getting ready before leaving at 10 am.

We drove in a southwesterly direction from Cerocahui, through Bahuichivo and on to Termoris. It was another mountain road that wound up and down through the mountains and small valleys. We had another encounter with the cartel as we entered Termoris. They must have had notice that we were driving their way, as there was a car waiting and they flashed their lights for us to stop. Eva and I were near the front so we stopped and they just asked where we were going and if all seven vehicles were a group. We told them we were tourists on our way to Chinipas to camp for the night. They smiled and told us to have a good day and enjoy our trip. They drove to the back of our convoy, turned around and sped past us back to town. Others in the group saw the AR-15s in the back of the car noticed that they were radioing to town that we were just passing through (or they were radioing to ambush us as we left town, but we evaded them by stopping to eat lunch near the horse racetrack at the edge of town).

The other interesting thing we saw were two different military convoys protecting refrigerated trucks carrying Covid vaccines. We assume they are delivering the vaccines to the small towns and need to ensure the narco cartels to not hijack this important payload. When we arrived in Chinipas, the convoy was at the clinic dropping off the vaccine.

The rest of the afternoon we continued on our way to Chinipas. We actually got a few minutes of rain as we drove the dirt roads. It was a slight help in keeping the dust down, and it made our van really dirty. We arrived in Chinipas around 4 pm. As we wandered our way through town, a police officer offered to escort us through town to the edge of the river where we set up camp on a gravel bar. We all sat in the shade of our vehicles, but it was still hot. After the sun went down the temperature became more bearable, and once it got dark it was quite pleasant outside and we enjoyed the evening. As we were turning in for the night the police came by and assured us they would patrol the area to keep us safe.

May 12, 2021

We left camp at 8:45 am, which is good as the temperature in the valley was rising. We took another winding road that followed switchbacks up the mountain side. Once at the top of the mountainside, we drove our way across the higher valleys until we descended down into the next valley. This drive was about 65 miles, but took 5 hours to complete.

We did stop at a nice green oasis in the mountains where a lady had a small tiende. We always try to stop at some of these small stores, just to buy something to support the locals since business has been so bad. However, at this tiende, we got lucky. The lady said she had made tamales this morning and they were still warm. Several of us bought tamales for lunch and they were very good. I told her they were the best tamales I have ever had.

When we arrived in Los Tanques, we were finally off dirt and back on pavement. We aired up our tires and continued another 25 km to Alamos. We stayed at the Hotel DoLisa, which was a very nice hotel. The rooms were large and clean, the shower was hot, the beds firm and best of all it has air conditioning. It was the nicest place we have stayed at so far. Later in the evening we walked down to the town square to eat dinner. They have a very nice square with a large church. The people there were very nice and suggested a few places to eat. We ended up eating at the Charisma Restaurant. It was good, but a little expensive for Mexico.

May 10, 2021

Last night, after mid-night, I were waken up by a group of kids riding in the back of a truck. They stopped on the road and started signing. After a while they continued up the road and I could hear the singing echoing through the valley. Eva only woke up when a second truck with a loud speaker followed the first. The second truck was campaigning for a local politician. The next morning we learned that they were singing to celebrate Mother’s Day, which in Mexico is May 10^th, regardless of what day of the week it was.

Speaking of politicians, it is campaign season in Mexico. The election is not until June 6^th, but every town we have passed through is covered with posters and signs for all the different politicians. Even the villages of only 10-15 houses have signs. Many vehicles have large stickers, signs and flags on them for the political party of their choice. In the evenings, there will be small parades of cruising around the town square. It seems that without the TV coverage that the US has, the campaigning in Mexico is more grass-roots and local.

We left the campground at 9 am and drove 7 km up the river to Guadalupe Coronado to visit the mission. This mission was more colorful that others we had visited.

We parked next to the school and the head teacher came out and opened the mission door for us. We were able to give him more school supplies and treats for him to distribute to the kids. This school is larger, with 180 kids total. The teacher was very grateful for the supplies.

We drove back through Urique and started another climb up the mountain. This was not the longest climb, but it felt the steepest. We went from 1800 ft elevation to over 6500 ft in only a few miles. The road was narrow and had many switchbacks. Near mountaintop there was a nice rest area with overlooks and tables.

We ate lunch before continuing over the top of the mountain, driving to Cerocahui, a nice colonial town that was still high enough in the mountains that it was not too hot.

We stopped at the local mission, near the town square. This mission was different than any other’s that we had seen. It was in active use and had beautiful stained glass windows. The outside was also different, and looked similar to the churches in Russian that we had seen. 

After leaving town we stayed at Hotel Paraiso del Oso, just outside of town in the forest. This is also known as the Yogi Bear Hotel, named after the rock formation above the property.

This is a pretty nice hotel, but has been hit hard by the pandemic. The owner said in March 2021, he did not have a single guest for the entire month. Like everyone else, he was glad to see us. He is a American that moved to Mexico 31 years ago to build the hotel and run a travel service. The rooms were nice and they served a good dinner for the group.